|
Flower Buds
|
|
© 2000 Alabama Forge Council
|
|
By Mike Linn
|
|
Start with a piece of 1¼" or
1½" square tubing. |
|
Put a mark on each corner,
down Dim. X (or however wide your tube is). Draw a diagonal line from the opposite corners to the marks. |
|
Make sure you cut the diagonal lines
in the same direction on each wall. Use plasma or treadle hammer. |
|
Forge to round on a cone
or anvil horn. |
|
On the anvil, tuck the cut corners to the
inside of the tube walls. Needlenose pliers can help tweek them in. |
|
Insert a piece of ¾" round stock
and forge the petals inward, (spiraling along the inside of the of the tube walls) while rolling the bud on the anvil.
Direct the hammer blows to push
the cut corners in and down. |
|
Bring to a bright yellow heat and cool the
petals (down to the end of the cuts).
Begin necking down the tube with a
fullering tool about 2" back from the tip of the petals. See pipe fuller tool.
Work carefully to prevent collapse, cold
shuts or shearing through the tube walls. |
|
Forge on down to the desired
diameter stem (I usually go to ¼" or 3/8"). Cut off the flower at the far end of the stem, reheat and reshape as needed. |
|
The petals can be worked all the way
in, spiraling to the center, to make a closed bud. Or can be left partially open for a candlecup.
This technique also works in copper
pipe for the same effect. |
|
Steel Bud w/ Banding Strap Leaves
|
|
Pair of Candlesticks
|