shop_tools

At the 1988 ABANA Conference Francis Whitaker
showed me a support for drop the tongs welds. It is simply
a 2 foot length of round bar that will fit in your pritchel hole.
Make a right angle bend about 2" from one end. Make
another right angle bend about 5" or 6" from the first bend,
but the second bend is in a different plane.Put in the
pritchel hole and adjust so the bar is slightly higher than the
anvil face and level. This has been shown in one newsletter
made from rebar and another with a little kink in the middle
or a bend up at the end. These changes would help keep
the stock from rolling.

-Clay Spencer

Another thing Francis
recommends is to spread the
reins of your tongs near the rivet.
This will allow them to on the
rack without being spread eagle

From the Pittsburgh Area Artists Blacksmith newsletter, August 1989, there was a sketch
of Francis' spring fuller for necking pipe under the power hammer. The channel welded on
the bottom fits the bottom die of the hammer or anvil and helps hold the swage inplace.
The size of the hole between the two pieces of the fuller is critical. Francis forged his so
that it leaves a 3/16" hole in the pipe. Just right for riveting or threading for a bolt. He has
two sizes, one for 3/4" and one for 1" pipe. The stock is ½" round and the total length of
the fuller is about 12".

Francis recommends the use of
small channel, 2" wide x 8" long
to support flat bottom stock
while drilling on a drill press. This
works especially well for drilling
multiple holes in a length of
stock. Burrs where the drill exits
will not allow the stock to lie flat.
Use light chain to attach the
channel to the drill press.

Ryan Johnson wrote in the Appalacian Area
Chapter newsletter, November 1991, about
how Jerry Darnell makes his nail headers
from A-2 (air hardening) tool steel. The stock
is 1" x 6" x ½" thick. Spring fuller about an
inch back and draw out the handle. Thin the
handle so it has spring and wont zap your
hand. Draw out the handle and form a hook
so it can be hung up. Make a square punch
with a blunt point. Punch from the back until
the tip of the punch pushes a bulge out but
does not punch through. Grind off the bulge
to leave a small square hole. Forge down the
material around the hole on top of the header
so you can forge facets on the nail head. Air
cool the header and start making nails.